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December 3rd, 2014, 09:15 PM
#1
Snow Shoes
I was hoping to get a pair of snow shoes this winter. Last winter saw too much snow to go trekking into a family cottage, looking for grouse on some family land, or even looking for rabbit along fence rows in fields.
I have only used a set once before ... I think they were Fabers.
I have line on a set from TSC ...make is ... I think Yanes.
I might get to use them 3 or 5 times each winter and likely not much more than 1 to 3 hours at a time.
Anyone do much snow shoeing?
Any insight as to what to look for?
Entropy
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December 3rd, 2014 09:15 PM
# ADS
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December 3rd, 2014, 09:22 PM
#2
I bought a set of Yanes lat year and used them alot. Miles of trekking and never an issue.
How is it one careless cigarette can cause a forest fire, but it takes a whole box of matches to light a campfire?
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December 3rd, 2014, 09:29 PM
#3
Discussed this a bit last week in off-topic... I picked up a pair last winter in wood/raw hide.... 14x48 or something like it. Those made all the difference in the very deep snow we got last year here.
http://www.oodmag.com/community/show...rning-shopping
FYI... take their weight ratings with a grain of salt... You may find you sink in a lot more than you expect. I upgraded last season to a set of larger traditional wooden snowshoes to gain more floatation (I think a 14x48 is what I got)... I'm 175lbs without gear on, and needed those for the waist-deep snow we had last year. The GF (who weighs about 140lbs) uses a set of mens aluminum/plastic snowshoes rated for somewhere around 225+lbs... and she sinks in quite a bit.
Take a look at something a little more "local"... http://www.snowshoesalesandrepairs.com/
Snowshoe Sales & Repairs in Timmins weaves wooden framed shoes w/ 400lb test monoline. I've never had the chance to use a pair, but from what I understand the monoline is nearly unbreakable and resists abrasion. Snow and ice don't really stick to it, so you can give them a bang to break off any buildup, no need to varnish the rawhide every season, and the monoline doesn't stretch when it gets wet. Wooden frames are sourced from Faber snowshoes (I believe). They offer some big snoeshoes at good prices.
16x30 bearpaw... rated to 350lbs on the Faber website (https://www.fabersnowshoes.com/snows...vy-duty-lacing). Basically the same price from Faber or SS&R. When I spoke with the lady at SS&R last year, she ships with Greyhound to keep costs down.
Just be careful with bigger snowshoes... if you step on a log or in a hole, you risk breaking them trying to carry your weight on the span of the snowshoe. I looked at a couple used pairs of snowshoes (big 60" units) this summer and both sets had one broken/patched snowshoe from spanning something. Same thing applies with the aluminum tubing... span across something and risk kinking the tube.
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December 3rd, 2014, 09:41 PM
#4
Get enough weight rating to carry you plus clothes plus gear.
Also take the boots you plan to wear with to the store and besure the harness will work with room to spare.
Take the warning labels off. Darwin will solve the problem.
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December 3rd, 2014, 10:26 PM
#5
I bought a set of these..... I never owned a pair so can't compare but they are pretty good for the couple of times a year I use them...
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/produ...dings?a=771260
"Everything is easy when you know how"
"Meat is not grown in stores"
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December 3rd, 2014, 10:57 PM
#6
I always used rubber bindings cut from a heavy truck or tractor tube . Stretch over your boot with a tail at back. No frozen bindings. Used them trapping where you had them of and on a lot. Shape is a elongated triangle , with a hole cut to suit your boot. old243
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December 3rd, 2014, 10:58 PM
#7
I have a pair of Faber Mountain Masters in 10x36 size. I love them for hunting in winter. The biggest difference I find when stepping up into premium ones is the quality and effectiveness of the bindings. When you strap these suckers on they aren't come off unlesss you release them.
https://www.fabersnowshoes.com/snows...ountain-master
I’m suspicious of people who don't like dogs, but I trust a dog who doesn't like a person.
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December 3rd, 2014, 11:17 PM
#8

Originally Posted by
old243
I always used rubber bindings cut from a heavy truck or tractor tube . Stretch over your boot with a tail at back. No frozen bindings. Used them trapping where you had them of and on a lot. Shape is a elongated triangle , with a hole cut to suit your boot. old243
Seen lots of those used. Nice thing is that it's easy to have a few spare binding in a pack with the rubber ones.
Of course tubes are not as easy to find now a days. At one time every tire shop or shade tree garage had torn ones around some where.
Last edited by Snowwalker; December 3rd, 2014 at 11:20 PM.
Take the warning labels off. Darwin will solve the problem.
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December 3rd, 2014, 11:45 PM
#9
No size or style of snowshoe does everything. You need large snowshoes for deep fluffy snow. In areas that are wind blown, fields or lakes then the snow packs and smaller shoes will do you fine--depending on your weight.
I hate to admit it but newer snowshoes with nylon webbing that come with nylon bindings that snap shut are what I'm happiest with. I've grew up using the old lampwick, then to leather which is probably the poorest, then tried rubber inner tubes that I did not like either.
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December 4th, 2014, 06:10 AM
#10
Its all in the bindings. The best bindings ive encountered were on a pair of shoes from LL Bean, of all places. I expected them to be some yuppy cheap things but theyve surprised me. Had them for about a decade, and Ive NEVER lost a shoe. Ive put a lot of mile on them at both work and play.
http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/84949...lker-snowshoes
Now, theyve changed the bindings slightly, but I'd hope they still are as good (presumably better?)