Used 4X4 trucks up in price

[Bluebulldog]

just gotta laugh at the fools that do?

I used to be that guy too.

But for the guys that say they buy a $2500 truck, and it lasts 2-3 years only putting $500 in, I call BS.

Keep every receipt, including the ones where you bought the parts and did it yourself. If you're buying a truck for $2500-$3000, you're buying something that's over 200,000km. Safety and e-tested? ( done properly, and not by Shady mechanic)...you're probably into $1000. Lets see, a couple of hundred parts, all designed MTTF ( mean time to failure), already past their expected useful life. o2 sensor? 4 of those at $100 each, brake pads, rotors, lets see, even a front wheel bearing on a 1/2 ton 4x4 goes for around the 300-400 mark.

I looked at my cost of ownership on new, vs. my 2004 Titan, which had never had a major failure, and it still factored in cheaper, with a vehicle that had no repair costs for the 1st 3 years, and possibly repair free for 6-7. Insurance cost dropped due to safety ratings.....in the long run, it was almost a wash cost wise to get into the new truck.

Fools indeed.......

[werner.reiche]

Never done a tandem pull, has to be hard especially if you had to back up a few feet.? I didn't know you were allowed to do tandem pull?

I was told you need a truck driver's license to do the tandem tow. That's based on the overall length of the trailers you are hauling.

[gooseman]

I also believe one has to be 5th wheel not a bumper pull. Could be wrong but read this not long ago

[greatwhite]

Well I paid 2800 for my 2001 Jimmy in 4 years I have put 700 into it, my truck had 98000 km on it and now has 156000 km. My car I paid 2300 put 500 into it in 2 years. Now I am excluding costs like tires but even tires I find cheap. If you look hard and long enough on Kijjii you will find almost new tires for next to nothing.

My last car I had a Sunbird drove for 5 years put in 1000.00.

I buy my used cars and Trucks etested and most times with the safety but not always.

I also have 1 car I purchase new an Accent we paid 21000 for in 2008. It has 285000 km, we need to drive it a minimum 5 more years to get the same value as the used cars I have bought. We blew away the warranty in 2.5 years.

I will trust my current 2000 Cavalier with 250,000 km on it to drive to New Brunswick no problem.

Just because you don't know what to look for when buying a used car or truck doesn't mean others don't.

Oh I don't expect the truck to last 2-3 years I expect it to last 4 - 5 or even longer.

Brake pads, rotors etc most of those parts are cheap even rads are cheap to buy and those same parts go on new cars and trucks when you hit 50 K. My Accent has had 3 brake pad changes and 2 rotors, 3 tune ups, etc.

I have replaced all the same parts on my Accent as I have on any used car.

I used to be that guy too.

But for the guys that say they buy a $2500 truck, and it lasts 2-3 years only putting $500 in, I call BS.

Keep every receipt, including the ones where you bought the parts and did it yourself. If you're buying a truck for $2500-$3000, you're buying something that's over 200,000km. Safety and e-tested? ( done properly, and not by Shady mechanic)...you're probably into $1000. Lets see, a couple of hundred parts, all designed MTTF ( mean time to failure), already past their expected useful life. o2 sensor? 4 of those at $100 each, brake pads, rotors, lets see, even a front wheel bearing on a 1/2 ton 4x4 goes for around the 300-400 mark.

I looked at my cost of ownership on new, vs. my 2004 Titan, which had never had a major failure, and it still factored in cheaper, with a vehicle that had no repair costs for the 1st 3 years, and possibly repair free for 6-7. Insurance cost dropped due to safety ratings.....in the long run, it was almost a wash cost wise to get into the new truck.

Fools indeed.......

[MikePal]

But for the guys that say they buy a $2500 truck, and it lasts 2-3 years only putting $500 in, I call BS.

No B.S. here....I have all my receipts..I can back up the cost of ownership. NEVER spent more that $800 in a repair cost at a garage in all the years I've owned trucks.

You should note...there is a difference in the cost of the vehicle vs the cost for items like brakes etc..they are user costs and not normal pro-rated in the over all cost of the vehicle.

[Bluebulldog]

No B.S. here....I have all my receipts..I can back up the cost of ownership. NEVER spent more that $800 in a repair cost at a garage in all the years I've owned trucks.

You should note...there is a difference in the cost of the vehicle vs the cost for items like brakes etc..they are user costs and not normal pro-rated in the over all cost of the vehicle.

Mike. As the tagline in the thread says. Cost of used 4x4 trucks up in price.

What happens when the cost of a set of rotors is $400, because it's an integral hub assembly? Is that a consumable? or a regular maintenance item?

Most shops now have shop rates of higher than $80 per hour, at least in the GTA. Even minor repairs are a $200-$300 hit plus parts.

Being prudent, and knowing what to look for in a vehicle plays a huge part of it, I'm aware, but expecting a truck with between 200-400K on it to go 2-3 years without any major repairs, or even a few minor mechanicals is an exception.

[greatwhite]

There are no rotors that cost 400.00 not even with the bearing, if you pay that I will laugh at you. Also I buy trucks and caras with well under 200 and usually around 100K

Mike. As the tagline in the thread says. Cost of used 4x4 trucks up in price.

What happens when the cost of a set of rotors is $400, because it's an integral hub assembly? Is that a consumable? or a regular maintenance item?

Most shops now have shop rates of higher than $80 per hour, at least in the GTA. Even minor repairs are a $200-$300 hit plus parts.

Being prudent, and knowing what to look for in a vehicle plays a huge part of it, I'm aware, but expecting a truck with between 200-400K on it to go 2-3 years without any major repairs, or even a few minor mechanicals is an exception.

[Bluebulldog]

Just because you don't know what to look for when buying a used car or truck doesn't mean others don't.

Oh I don't expect the truck to last 2-3 years I expect it to last 4 - 5 or even longer.

Lets be frank here. Cars are not trucks. I can find a ton of used cars in the sub $3000 price bracket that are likely to last. They also started out with a sub-$15k price tag. Your Sunbird, etc are not the same category as a pick up truck, nor is your Jimmy for that matter.

Let's try and stay away from the assumptions, like I don't know what to look for, ok? I've bought and sold a ton of vehicles over the years, both personal and fleet. Lots of pre-owned. I know what makes have certain issues to look for, and the difference between a sticky valve, and a loud fuel injector. Up until a few years ago, unless it required a hoist, I turned a wrench on all my vehicles, and even then, I often borrowed a buddies hoist and did stuff like exhaust myself. So don't be insulting. I'm not the guy who came on here and slagged guys who have chosen to buy new as fools. ( I know you weren't, but I'm making a point).

There are a ton of trucks on Kijiji right now for less than $3000. 99% of them have between 200-400K on them. Are there probably a few gems in there? Sure. Would I be willing to give odds that even a couple of those gems may have a major repair in the next 2-4 years? I'd put it at 50-50.

But as you mentioned. You're not doing daily driving, so wear and tear become almost nil for a guy like you....yes, they might fit the bill.

[Bluebulldog]

There are no rotors that cost 400.00 not even with the bearing, if you pay that I will laugh at you. Also I buy trucks and caras with well under 200 and usually around 100K

Ok GW, obviously someone tinkled in your cornflakes this am, because that's two posts in a row where you're being a bit insulting.

For the record, if you're going to talk auto parts...yeah, I'm picky. I don't cheap out on brake components, or very many others. The cheap stuff never lasts as long, and they usually put out a ton more dust. I don't know if you've had to do brake work on any of the newer ( 2012+) Chev or Ford trucks, but I can indeed tell you that brake components for them are climbing into that bracket.

[greatwhite]

Bluebulldog, for starters I can tell you are buy your parts from the manufacture and pay alot for a bunch of crap. Yeah I used to buy my hub bearings from GM at a cost of 400 and they would last about 12 months in the bush. I now buy cheap ones and the last pair have been on for 2 years I paid 50 bucks each. Yeah I buy the cheap parts (By the way so does GM found out they were buying their brake lines from where I did). My brake pads will last as long as your if not longer. Some cheap parts I stay away from. But I will give you a good example Moog Ball Joints at Ford were 100 bucks I buy them for 40 bucks. Same part just Ford wants to rip you off.

Ok GW, obviously someone tinkled in your cornflakes this am, because that's two posts in a row where you're being a bit insulting.

For the record, if you're going to talk auto parts...yeah, I'm picky. I don't cheap out on brake components, or very many others. The cheap stuff never lasts as long, and they usually put out a ton more dust. I don't know if you've had to do brake work on any of the newer ( 2012+) Chev or Ford trucks, but I can indeed tell you that brake components for them are climbing into that bracket.