Used 4X4 trucks up in price

Has anyone who might be looking for a used truck noticed how lately they have gone up by 25%. I was thinking of selling my Jimmy and getting a Pickup. My Jimmy is a 2001 and in very good shape with 150K. I paid 2800 for it about 3.5 years ago. Now with the ATV I was thinking maybe a small 4x4 pickup might be better so I have been looking for something older 2004 and newer. Well looking around you cannot find anything that isn't a wreck or has almost 300,000 KM on it and than they still want 80000 for it. Three year ago I could buy a 10 year old truck for less than 2 grand and less than 100,000 KM on it. Now you cant even buy anything. It appears my Truck has gone up in value by 1200 over what I paid. Tempted to list it but don't think I will sell before I find something else.

My Price for a truck was going to be 3000 for a 10 year old 4x4 small truck with 150,000 KM on it. But even if I go to 5000 you cannot find much with under 250,000 KM on it and most have 3000,000.

Wow

Dealers want all used trucks they can get because of the dollar they are sending them to the states. I was offered $24,000 for my 2013 in the spring and it had 95,000km's on it but it would have been another $18,000 to replace it.

The cheapest I can find an older truck for with 150K or less is over 6000, if I want a big 6 liter engine.

The turnover in used trucks,right now,is unbelievable and that's what's driving the prices up. Our local GM dealer can't get their hands on enough. They can't keep them on the lot. Mind you,they must be in excellent condition to command top dollar.

The Ottawa and Barrie used vehicle auctions is loaded with US dealers since early this year, they take it all including boat, atv and so on.... It's a tough time for our used vehicules dealer, but a great time to get ride of your used truck if it's in good shape and less than 5 years old.

I had heard that the US dealers were buying, I didn't think they were also buying the 10 year old stuff.

I might be stuck with my Jimmy. I will have to keep an I out for an older pick up.

Yea, keep an eye out for private sales...I see a lot around here where you can still get a good truck at a good price..

Stay away from the dealers....as always.

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

I had heard that the US dealers were buying, I didn't think they were also buying the 10 year old stuff.

I might be stuck with my Jimmy. I will have to keep an I out for an older pick up.

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I don't think they do either but if the price of the newer stuff go up the older ones must go up too, just not as bad.
Mike is right, always good private sale deals out there just takes longer to find them.

I was looking at buying used this past month, prices are insane! My budget kept creeping up the more I looked. I saw a good deal pop-up on a dealer site and I called about it that evening and it was already gone. I ended up just buying new with Ford's discounts currently on it made more sense to buy new than pay almost the same price for a 3 year old truck with 50K on it. And just before I bought the local dealership also called up my father-in-law and got him out of his lease a year early with a ridiculous deal on a new truck so they could send his to the US.

I bought new as well. RAM 1500 Bighorn with all the bells & whistles. Zero % financing & a great trade in value was hard to turn down.

Love my truck!! lol

I was looking fairly new used and once the interest rate on the used was tacked on it was cheaper to buy new

I think you guys are in a whole different ball park, GW and I aren't even in the parking lot...we pay less for trucks than you did in taxes on yours :)

It sounds like he's looking for something around $3K.....I know I haven't paid over $4K for a truck in my whole life...going on the 3rd yr with my latest that I bought at an auction for $3200.

As long as you aren't in a hurry GW...wait for a good deal to come along.

I had my fair share of used trucks. Some were great others gave me head-aches & cost me lot's of coin to keep them going. I don't have time or the desire to work on them anymore & I would rather spend my free time hunting & fishing. Heck I even had them throw in the maintenance package... lol

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Originally Posted by bellerivercrossbowhunter

I had my fair share of used trucks. Some were great others gave me head-aches & cost me lot's of coin to keep them going. I don't have time or the desire to work on them anymore & I would rather spend my free time hunting & fishing. Heck I even had them throw in the maintenance package... lol

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You're making the assumption that newer vehicles don't have their problems - or do you buy new when you run out of warranty?

I've got 385k on a '98 sierra bought in 2002. Paid 19k for it then - 4 years old.

Lot's of time, I don't intend to sell the Jimmy until I find something else. Usually when I buy a used truck I make all the necessary repairs up front so it's reliable.

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Originally Posted by MikePal

I think you guys are in a whole different ball park, GW and I aren't even in the parking lot...we pay less for trucks than you did in taxes on yours :)

It sounds like he's looking for something around $3K.....I know I haven't paid over $4K for a truck in my whole life...going on the 3rd yr with my latest that I bought at an auction for $3200.

As long as you aren't in a hurry GW...wait for a good deal to come along.

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Originally Posted by bardern

I was looking fairly new used and once the interest rate on the used was tacked on it was cheaper to buy new

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A lot of people are starting to notice this. I did

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Originally Posted by werner.reiche

I've got 385k on a '98 sierra bought in 2002. Paid 19k for it then - 4 years old.

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I got the 97 Sierra (4x4) in 2013 ...only 169K on it for $3.2K...stored in a guys garage most of the time. I've only spend $700 to have the diff bearing done and a brake job...that's it for the 3 yrs I've owned it.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps0386a754.jpg

I bought my 2001 Jimmy I think in 2013 with 98000 KM on it for 2800. I now have 150000 Km on it and it appears I could probably sell it for more than I paid. What size engine is in that Mike? V8?

I was hoping to find something like an old 2001 - 2005 S10 or Ranger but there are n one left.

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

What size engine is in that Mike? V8?

I was hoping to find something like an old 2001 - 2005 S10 or Ranger but there are n one left.

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yes the 5lt...bullet proof..

I guess you'd be looking for a Colorado (replaced the S-10)..they should be in our price range now.

Are you looking to a P/U to haul the ATV in the bed ? You might be just as well off buying a trailer for behind the Jimmy.

Nope they want 8000 + if it has less than 300,000 on it.

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Originally Posted by MikePal

yes the 5lt...bullet proof..

I guess you'd be looking for a Colorado (replaced the S-10)..they should be in our price range now.

Are you looking to a P/U to haul the ATV in the bed ? You might be just as well off buying a trailer for behind the Jimmy.

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Originally Posted by MikePal

Are you looking to a P/U to haul the ATV in the bed ? You might be just as well off buying a trailer for behind the Jimmy.

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What about the use for it....

Currently I even pile wood in the Jimmy. But your right I also want it to put the ATV in the back then we can use the trailer to pull the other ATV and maybe a third (Will need bigger trailer than).

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Originally Posted by MikePal

What about the use for it....

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Originally Posted by MikePal

I think you guys are in a whole different ball park, GW and I aren't even in the parking lot...we pay less for trucks than you did in taxes on yours :)

It sounds like he's looking for something around $3K.....I know I haven't paid over $4K for a truck in my whole life...going on the 3rd yr with my latest that I bought at an auction for $3200.

As long as you aren't in a hurry GW...wait for a good deal to come along.

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My gawd I hear you about the sticker on new, this is the first new anything I have ever had. Buyers remorse? maybe but I drive so much, 40k per year, I constantly had a payment anyway from constantly buying used every two years. And after 40 years in the coal mines I decided I deserved me a new one lol.

I bought new once in 2008, bought a Accent for the wife (it was cheaper than divorce :)). I will never by new again. I usually pay 2000 for a used car and put in less the 500 and it will last me 3 - 5 years. My Truck is almost 4 years old had one big issue with the 4x4 system I think I spent about a 700 fixing it myself. For the cost of that new Accent I could have purchased 7 used Accents lasting me over 20 years.

After buying that Accent I promised myself I would never take my wife with me when I test drive cars, I only went to test drive the new one to see what they were like but the mistake was bringing her along.

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Originally Posted by bardern

My gawd I hear you about the sticker on new, this is the first new anything I have ever had. Buyers remorse? maybe but I drive so much, 40k per year, I constantly had a payment anyway from constantly buying used every two years. And after 40 years in the coal mines I decided I deserved me a new one lol.

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I bought a new 2014 sierra just about two years ago now. Best money ever spent. It averages 11l/100 and even better with lots of highway driving. Been to BC and back twice and a couple moose trips to White River. Rides like a car and pulls like a train. All this with pushrods to boot. No Ford ohv cam phazer crap to mess up. Just saying! Good deals on the 2016s now. Upgraded from a 2010 Colorado.

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Wait till gas prices go up then all the people that overpaid and now can't afford the feed them will be dropping them like flies and drive the prices way down, just hang in there :)

I guess if you were concerned about that then you should buy a Ford Fiesta. But good luck putting a Moose in the back!!

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I don't drive my truck regularly, it's only used for Camping, hunting, fishing and hauling wood etc. I don't drive it to work I have cars for that. But if I could find a reasonably priced older truck like an S10 or Ranger I would be Happy. Like I said my truck has actually gone up in value compared to what they were selling a few years ago.

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Originally Posted by rippin_355

I guess if you were concerned about that then you should buy a Ford Fiesta. But good luck putting a Moose in the back!!

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Gotcha. Honestly the Rangers ride like crap! Ive owned both s10 and rangers. They stopped making s10s in 2002 or so then the Colorado/canyon came out in 2004. If you can find a decent solid s10/sonoma and keep your Jimmy the parts are interchangable for the most part.

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Originally Posted by rippin_355

. But good luck putting a Moose in the back!!

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Heck of a cost paying $500 a month on a loan/lease just to haul a moose once a year..better off renting a new truck ($100/day) for the week...LOL

I guess if you have the money to burn away every month, buying a new ride is OK..but unless you actually use that RAM 2500 for work and can right it off, letting it sit in the driveway Mon-Fri because you can't afford the fuel to commute with it, makes really poor financial sense. Vehicle are the worse investment as it is.

Lets be honest here, looking around the CT parking lot on a Sat, very few trucks are ever used to haul stuff.....I'll bet most have never even seen a sheet of plywood let alone a moose :)

Well im not your average grocery getter truck owner. I use it for work, play and need 4x4 to get to work a lot of times. I dont have to commute far. It gets better mileage as many much smaller vehicles. Say if i had a car the averaged 9L/100 and say gas was a dollar a litre. Thats $72 to go 800km. Now mine at 11/100 is $88. The difference is peanuts. Your old technology truck wont even compete and any departement with mine. So if you wanna start another pissing contest on here Mike I'll beat ya everytime!

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And maybe if you would stop going to CT every Saturday you could afford it!

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I must be the exception Mike lol. Mine hauls firewood, 8000 lb trailers, critters and my fat azz to work lol. But you are correct vehicles are certainly not an investment for sure. I just got tired of buying a another half worn out truck every two years, I am hoping to get at least 300k out of this new one. and I should I am a freak for maintenance and the truck body is aluminum so no rusty cab corners or box sides. I still get the steel frame Krowned. So my reckoning is if I keep the truck for ten years I will be without a payment for seven.

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Originally Posted by rippin_355

Well im not your average grocery getter truck owner. I use it for work, play and need 4x4 to get to work a lot of times. I dont have to commute far.

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Congrats..you're one of the other types ... my comments are more in line with the other "average" guys who live in the burbs, you know who I mean, be honest I'll bet you know lots of guys that drive them and don't use them for what they told their wives they needed them for ..LOL..

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Originally Posted by rippin_355

And maybe if you would stop going to CT every Saturday you could afford it!

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Ha...it's the only time you see those fancy chrome plated P/U trucks out in public, otherwise Mon-Fri they're all sitting in the driveways in the burbs waiting desperately for the elusive run to the lumber store to buy that sheet of plywood..LOL..

I know lots of the 'average ' guys...My buddy drivers a Ram...never hauled anything in the back bigger than a roll of carpet (which they would have delivered for $15). He says he needs it to pull/launch his boat...which only happened 1/2 dozen times last year. He can't afford the fuel to drive it to the city (160km a day), it would cost him well over $100 a week.

No pissing contest, just the facts....

Like GW, I live in a farming rural area where there is a well used P/U in every driveway...I've always had one, since I don't commute (retired) gas is not an issue and since I buy older well broken in trucks I don't have a truck loan/lease payments so there is lots of money in the account for the $40 of gas that I burn in a week in my low tech truck ..LOL..

There is a big difference from a working P/U and the showy P/U that is never driven off hard stand. GW is looking for one of the working types that is affordable.

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Originally Posted by bardern

I must be the exception

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I hear you Barden...but you're not the exception, at least not this forum...outdoor guys do use their trucks more than most. But the sales numbers indicate there are a whack of trucks being sold to a lot of wannabes, that own them and don't 'need' them.

When I was in the Toyota dealership looking at a new Tundra for $62K I just shook my head....my first house was only a few dollars more....at least I made $10K on it when I sold it 4 years later :)

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Originally Posted by MikePal

Heck of a cost paying $500 a month on a loan/lease just to haul a moose once a year..better off renting a new truck ($100/day) for the week...LOL

I guess if you have the money to burn away every month, buying a new ride is OK..but unless you actually use that RAM 2500 for work and can right it off, letting it sit in the driveway Mon-Fri because you can't afford the fuel to commute with it, makes really poor financial sense. Vehicle are the worse investment as it is.

Lets be honest here, looking around the CT parking lot on a Sat, very few trucks are ever used to haul stuff.....I'll bet most have never even seen a sheet of plywood let alone a moose :)

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Can't believe you wasted thousands on that old truck. There's no reason why anyone should use anything more than an ebike and Uber.
It's always entertaining when someone tells you how you should be spending your money.

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Originally Posted by MikePal

I hear you Barden...but you're not the exception, at least not this forum...outdoor guys do use their trucks more than most. But the sales numbers indicate there are a whack of trucks being sold to a lot of wannabes, that own them and don't 'need' them.

When I was in the Toyota dealership looking at a new Tundra for $62K I just shook my head....my first house was only a few dollars more....at least I made $10K on it when I sold it 4 years later :)

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my first and still the one I live in was 63K. probably worth at least 65k now ;-)

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Originally Posted by LowbanksArcher

It's always entertaining when someone tells you how you should be spending your money.

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Almost as entertaining as when a guy asked about a used truck for around $3k and guys feel the need to tell him he should buy a $30k truck ....:)

I have never had a major break down (Knock wood) with any of my cars or Trucks on average they last me 4 - 5 years and I pay approx 2500. To equal that a brand new truck at $60,000 would need to last me a minimum of 30 years. Will they last that long?

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Originally Posted by MikePal

Almost as entertaining as when a guy asked about a used truck for around $3k and guys feel the need to tell him he needs to buy a $30k truck ....:)

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you have been lucky GW. One of the last cheapies I bought cost me a $3500 tranny and Tcase. I had just bought that damn thing so I was between a rock and hard place. There is no right or wrong answer to new or used.

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Originally Posted by MikePal

Almost as entertaining as when a guy asked about a used truck for around $3k and guys feel the need to tell him he should buy a $30k truck ....:)

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Not once in this thread has anyone suggested he buy new, unless if he were looking at a 'nearly' new truck.

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Originally Posted by LowbanksArcher

Not once in this thread has anyone suggested he buy new, unless if he were looking at a 'nearly' new truck.

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I guess you missed these...

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Originally Posted by rippin_355

I bought a new 2014 sierra just about two years ago now. Best money ever spent.

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Originally Posted by chris1395

I ended up just buying new with Ford's discounts currently on it made more sense to buy new than pay almost the same price for a 3 year old truck with 50K on it.

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Originally Posted by bellerivercrossbowhunter

I bought new as well. RAM 1500 Bighorn with all the bells & whistles. Zero % financing & a great trade in value was hard to turn down.

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Originally Posted by bardern

I was looking fairly new used and once the interest rate on the used was tacked on it was cheaper to buy new

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

I have never had a major break down (Knock wood) with any of my cars or Trucks on average they last me 4 - 5 years and I pay approx 2500.

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GW..when we had this discussion a few years back I went back thru and added up all the costs of the vehicles I had bought over the past 40 yrs and then pro-rated them...it worked out to about $1,200 a yr for vehicle ownership in my lifetime. AND I never had a major bill, no where near $1K at least ..because I would have junked it and bought another.

Should add..back then 'new' cars were only about $5K..the only 'new' car I ever bought was a Caprice Classic wagon and it was $6,200.

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Originally Posted by MikePal

I guess you missed these...

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I guess posting what you've purchased yourself is the same as telling the OP what to buy.

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Originally Posted by MikePal

yes the 5lt...bullet proof..

I guess you'd be looking for a Colorado (replaced the S-10)..they should be in our price range now.

Are you looking to a P/U to haul the ATV in the bed ? You might be just as well off buying a trailer for behind the Jimmy.

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I looked at a 2009 GMC Canyon , same as Chev, Colorado, which replaced the S-10, this truck belonged to my friend who passed away two months ago, it has the extended cab and the 5 cyl. engine and a matching cap,[ it's great on fuel economy] , I said no as the appraised value is still between $ 11,000.00 to $12,000.00
Brand new Chev, True North Edition , is at home here now, and it is amazing the fuel economy it gets when i can cruise along on a flat stretch of road and it drops back to 4 cyl. at 90 kmph.

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

I bought new once in 2008, bought a Accent for the wife (it was cheaper than divorce :)). I will never by new again. I usually pay 2000 for a used car and put in less the 500 and it will last me 3 - 5 years. My Truck is almost 4 years old had one big issue with the 4x4 system I think I spent about a 700 fixing it myself. For the cost of that new Accent I could have purchased 7 used Accents lasting me over 20 years.

After buying that Accent I promised myself I would never take my wife with me when I test drive cars, I only went to test drive the new one to see what they were like but the mistake was bringing her along.

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Your wife is a keeper , must be a saint as she lets you pick the vehicle she is going to drive with no input in the decision.

I paid for it.

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Originally Posted by fishermccann

Your wife is a keeper , must be a saint as she lets you pick the vehicle she is going to drive with no input in the decision.

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Originally Posted by MikePal

GW..when we had this discussion a few years back I went back thru and added up all the costs of the vehicles I had bought over the past 40 yrs and then pro-rated them...it worked out to about $1,200 a yr for vehicle ownership in my lifetime. AND I never had a major bill, no where near $1K at least ..because I would have junked it and bought another.

Should add..back then 'new' cars were only about $5K..the only 'new' car I ever bought was a Caprice Classic wagon and it was $6,200.

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My first new truck was a 350 Chev 4x4 for$ 8800 out the door.

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

I paid for it.

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Do married couples still view things that way in this day and age? I thought everything was 'ours' , not 'mine' or 'theirs'.

My Wife is not very good with money, if she was I would actually be retired right now and I am only 47, for the past 8 years now I have taken full control of the finances and make ALL Financial Decisions.

By the way I have only driven it maybe 5 times in 8 years.

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Originally Posted by fishermccann

Do married couples still view things that way in this day and age? I thought everything was 'ours' , not 'mine' or 'theirs'.

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here's a factoid;

When in Germany in 89, a lady in our office went into the BMW dealership to by a car. They wouldn't sell it to her unless her husband came in and gave his OK....she actually made more money than him !!!

And So it should be! ;)

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Originally Posted by MikePal

here's a factoid;

When in Germany in 89, a lady in our office went into the BMW dealership to by a car. They wouldn't sell it to her unless her husband came in and gave his OK....she actually made more money than him !!!

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

And So it should be! ;)

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Misogynist ?? :confused: :)

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

I paid for it.

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'Nuff said ! 😀👍🏻

Hey GW...saw this add posted on FB today....

$1800 or best offer or trade ?
1999 S10 4.3 V6 extended cab short box with flare sides. Auto. 325 KM. Runs good. Small crack in windshield. Was safeties and w tested approx 14 months ago. (Approx 10,000 km ago) this vehicle has not been winter driven
Located smiths falls. Call or text Dan for more info or trades 613-285-4224

https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...87&oe=5827F27C

GW, if your SUV is still serving you well just get a 4x8 utility trailer for the times you need to haul stuff. I did it for years and it is far more cost effective than feeding a full sized truck as a daily driver.

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Originally Posted by MikePal

Hey GW...saw this add posted on FB today....

$1800 or best offer or trade ?
1999 S10 4.3 V6 extended cab short box with flare sides. Auto. 325 KM. Runs good. Small crack in windshield. Was safeties and w tested approx 14 months ago. (Approx 10,000 km ago) this vehicle has not been winter driven
Located smiths falls. Call or text Dan for more info or trades 613-285-4224

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That beauty must ride like princess....

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Originally Posted by seabast

That beauty must ride like princess....

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They never rode well, even new...but for that price you can buy a great gel seat cushion :)

Traded a 2015 Silverado HD LTZ Duramax with 40000K for a 2016 option for option $6000.00 all in.
Lots of demand for used 4X4 diesel crew cabs in the USA.
I am a farmer in SW On and my truck is rarely clean, has lots of stone chips and tows heavy loads on a regular basis lol.

Willy

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Originally Posted by fishermccann

Do married couples still view things that way in this day and age? I thought everything was 'ours' , not 'mine' or 'theirs'.

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The world has changed,FMcC. Traditional marriage like we knew it went out with the square wheel. If you asked a woman to cook dinner and do the laundry these days,she'd look at you like you had a third eye. My buddy and his wife live separate lives under the same roof,happy as clams. He does his thing,she does hers. Every once in a while they have a "discussion" and afterwards,just carry on. I call them a couple of DINKS.....Double Income,No Kids. It works for them.

If I bought any 'major' ,( meaning costly), item for the wife to use without checking to see if she would want that model, size, etc. I would also be looking for a new wife after 31 years.

Thanks for looking for me guys. But 325K is a bit to much. At that point many components are about to wear out.

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Originally Posted by MikePal

Hey GW...saw this add posted on FB today....

$1800 or best offer or trade ?
1999 S10 4.3 V6 extended cab short box with flare sides. Auto. 325 KM. Runs good. Small crack in windshield. Was safeties and w tested approx 14 months ago. (Approx 10,000 km ago) this vehicle has not been winter driven
Located smiths falls. Call or text Dan for more info or trades 613-285-4224

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Oh I have a trailer, but it would be easier if I had a truck instead of an SUV.

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Originally Posted by terrym

GW, if your SUV is still serving you well just get a 4x8 utility trailer for the times you need to haul stuff. I did it for years and it is far more cost effective than feeding a full sized truck as a daily driver.

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My Wife is not very good at managing money I learn that costly issue approx 5 years ago as I separated our Joint accounts and Visa's. During our first 15 years of marriage I figure it cost me 75,000, that I paid off for her. I now ultimately make all financial decisions. I the past 6 months with her having gone back to work. I have managed to pay of 10 thousand in debt and banked another 7000. By Xmas I will have paid of 20,000 and banked 10 K. At that point I will have everything back under control from the debt she racked up going back to school, which sadly will never pay for itself unless she works to age 70. Which is why I am working to jobs to pay everything off before next Spring. SO call me old fashion but sometimes it is not good to have someone involved managing money who doesn't understand how to manage it. I will be retiring in less than 10 years once everything is paid for including the house (Well unless I have a heart attack first :(:rolleyes:)

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Originally Posted by fishermccann

If I bought any 'major' ,( meaning costly), item for the wife to use without checking to see if she would want that model, size, etc. I would also be looking for a new wife after 31 years.

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Originally Posted by MikePal

They never rode well, even new...but for that price you can buy a great gel seat cushion :)

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Kind of amazing you could buy something like that for maybe only 1500$ and it might give you no issue for a year or so.... After that who care if it does, it's alredy pay for.

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Originally Posted by fishermccann

Do married couples still view things that way in this day and age? I thought everything was 'ours' , not 'mine' or 'theirs'.

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There are some "Old School" women out there.

I married one. Major purchases are just done, as long as I know we're ok financially, she doesn't care. But there is a trade off.

I pay for everything.

Now, we never ever fight about money, and she never worries about it. She has a part time job, and it pays for the groceries, and anything to do with our son. Works for us....

If you want to be treated like a king in his castle, you have to treat your partner like a queen, not a nanny, or chambermaid.;)

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Originally Posted by seabast

Kind of amazing you could buy something like that for maybe only 1500$ and it might give you no issue for a year or so.... After that who care if it does, it's alredy pay for.

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Exactly..falls into my $1200 a yr for vehicle ownership...if you get two yrs out of that your well within "a good deal"..I imagine it would last longer if you only used it to haul stuff occasionally.

I've had a few trucks go over 400k..but the were Toyotas :)

The old man use to say the something. You know on average for a 2000 car I usually get 4 - 5 years and put about 500 bucks in. I average 45 thousand km a year. The current Jimmy I paid 2800 for it. I have had it for 3 or 4 years now I did have to redo the 4x4 system and replace the drive shaft but did that myself. I also drive my truck quite hard.

The problem with the Jimmy is it really isn't good for hauling wood in the back seems to be hard on the springs. With a extended cab truck I can pick up stuff even if I don't have the trailer with me.

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Originally Posted by MikePal

Exactly..falls into my $1200 a yr for vehicle ownership...if you get two yrs out of that your well within "a good deal"..I imagine it would last longer if you only used it to haul stuff occasionally.

I've had a few trucks go over 400k..but the were Toyotas :)

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I'm going to wade into this a bit late. Just got back home from a 3 week camping/fishing/relaxing trip back in the bush north of the Soo. My 2001 F150 4X4, 280k, did a tandem tow (16 ft. Travel trailer with 14' boat behind) 200 km of rough, and I mean rough, (un-maintained, boulder strewn, washed out) bush roads. Then about 200km of highway. Nary a lick of trouble? I paid $2300 4 years ago. Maybe $500 in rubber? A couple hundred in misc? Ok, the air conditioning doesnt work so I sweated a bit today coming out of the bush? Would I buy new? Ha Ha Ha Ha... just gotta laugh at the fools that do?

Never done a tandem pull, has to be hard especially if you had to back up a few feet.? I didn't know you were allowed to do tandem pull?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bushmoose

I'm going to wade into this a bit late. Just got back home from a 3 week camping/fishing/relaxing trip back in the bush north of the Soo. My 2001 F150 4X4, 280k, did a tandem tow (16 ft. Travel trailer with 14' boat behind) 200 km of rough, and I mean rough, (un-maintained, boulder strewn, washed out) bush roads. Then about 200km of highway. Nary a lick of trouble? I paid $2300 4 years ago. Maybe $500 in rubber? A couple hundred in misc? Ok, the air conditioning doesnt work so I sweated a bit today coming out of the bush? Would I buy new? Ha Ha Ha Ha... just gotta laugh at the fools that do?

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Would I buy new? Ha Ha Ha Ha... just gotta laugh at the fools that do?

thanks but I like to think the world needs fools like me. but hey I need a big new truck because I catch bigger fish than the litty bity ones in your avatar ;-) lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

Never done a tandem pull, has to be hard especially if you had to back up a few feet.? I didn't know you were allowed to do tandem pull?

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sounds like an un-approved hwy..a place where the Chrome plated behemoths won't go...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bushmoose

just gotta laugh at the fools that do?

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I used to be that guy too.

But for the guys that say they buy a $2500 truck, and it lasts 2-3 years only putting $500 in, I call BS.

Keep every receipt, including the ones where you bought the parts and did it yourself. If you're buying a truck for $2500-$3000, you're buying something that's over 200,000km. Safety and e-tested? ( done properly, and not by Shady mechanic)...you're probably into $1000. Lets see, a couple of hundred parts, all designed MTTF ( mean time to failure), already past their expected useful life. o2 sensor? 4 of those at $100 each, brake pads, rotors, lets see, even a front wheel bearing on a 1/2 ton 4x4 goes for around the 300-400 mark.

I looked at my cost of ownership on new, vs. my 2004 Titan, which had never had a major failure, and it still factored in cheaper, with a vehicle that had no repair costs for the 1st 3 years, and possibly repair free for 6-7. Insurance cost dropped due to safety ratings.....in the long run, it was almost a wash cost wise to get into the new truck.

Fools indeed.......

Quote:

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

Never done a tandem pull, has to be hard especially if you had to back up a few feet.? I didn't know you were allowed to do tandem pull?

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I was told you need a truck driver's license to do the tandem tow. That's based on the overall length of the trailers you are hauling.

I also believe one has to be 5th wheel not a bumper pull. Could be wrong but read this not long ago

Well I paid 2800 for my 2001 Jimmy in 4 years I have put 700 into it, my truck had 98000 km on it and now has 156000 km. My car I paid 2300 put 500 into it in 2 years. Now I am excluding costs like tires but even tires I find cheap. If you look hard and long enough on Kijjii you will find almost new tires for next to nothing.

My last car I had a Sunbird drove for 5 years put in 1000.00.

I buy my used cars and Trucks etested and most times with the safety but not always.

I also have 1 car I purchase new an Accent we paid 21000 for in 2008. It has 285000 km, we need to drive it a minimum 5 more years to get the same value as the used cars I have bought. We blew away the warranty in 2.5 years.

I will trust my current 2000 Cavalier with 250,000 km on it to drive to New Brunswick no problem.

Just because you don't know what to look for when buying a used car or truck doesn't mean others don't.

Oh I don't expect the truck to last 2-3 years I expect it to last 4 - 5 or even longer.

Brake pads, rotors etc most of those parts are cheap even rads are cheap to buy and those same parts go on new cars and trucks when you hit 50 K. My Accent has had 3 brake pad changes and 2 rotors, 3 tune ups, etc.

I have replaced all the same parts on my Accent as I have on any used car.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bluebulldog

I used to be that guy too.

But for the guys that say they buy a $2500 truck, and it lasts 2-3 years only putting $500 in, I call BS.

Keep every receipt, including the ones where you bought the parts and did it yourself. If you're buying a truck for $2500-$3000, you're buying something that's over 200,000km. Safety and e-tested? ( done properly, and not by Shady mechanic)...you're probably into $1000. Lets see, a couple of hundred parts, all designed MTTF ( mean time to failure), already past their expected useful life. o2 sensor? 4 of those at $100 each, brake pads, rotors, lets see, even a front wheel bearing on a 1/2 ton 4x4 goes for around the 300-400 mark.

I looked at my cost of ownership on new, vs. my 2004 Titan, which had never had a major failure, and it still factored in cheaper, with a vehicle that had no repair costs for the 1st 3 years, and possibly repair free for 6-7. Insurance cost dropped due to safety ratings.....in the long run, it was almost a wash cost wise to get into the new truck.

Fools indeed.......

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bluebulldog

But for the guys that say they buy a $2500 truck, and it lasts 2-3 years only putting $500 in, I call BS.

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No B.S. here....I have all my receipts..I can back up the cost of ownership. NEVER spent more that $800 in a repair cost at a garage in all the years I've owned trucks.

You should note...there is a difference in the cost of the vehicle vs the cost for items like brakes etc..they are user costs and not normal pro-rated in the over all cost of the vehicle.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikePal

No B.S. here....I have all my receipts..I can back up the cost of ownership. NEVER spent more that $800 in a repair cost at a garage in all the years I've owned trucks.

You should note...there is a difference in the cost of the vehicle vs the cost for items like brakes etc..they are user costs and not normal pro-rated in the over all cost of the vehicle.

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Mike. As the tagline in the thread says. Cost of used 4x4 trucks up in price.

What happens when the cost of a set of rotors is $400, because it's an integral hub assembly? Is that a consumable? or a regular maintenance item?

Most shops now have shop rates of higher than $80 per hour, at least in the GTA. Even minor repairs are a $200-$300 hit plus parts.

Being prudent, and knowing what to look for in a vehicle plays a huge part of it, I'm aware, but expecting a truck with between 200-400K on it to go 2-3 years without any major repairs, or even a few minor mechanicals is an exception.

There are no rotors that cost 400.00 not even with the bearing, if you pay that I will laugh at you. Also I buy trucks and caras with well under 200 and usually around 100K

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bluebulldog

Mike. As the tagline in the thread says. Cost of used 4x4 trucks up in price.

What happens when the cost of a set of rotors is $400, because it's an integral hub assembly? Is that a consumable? or a regular maintenance item?

Most shops now have shop rates of higher than $80 per hour, at least in the GTA. Even minor repairs are a $200-$300 hit plus parts.

Being prudent, and knowing what to look for in a vehicle plays a huge part of it, I'm aware, but expecting a truck with between 200-400K on it to go 2-3 years without any major repairs, or even a few minor mechanicals is an exception.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

Just because you don't know what to look for when buying a used car or truck doesn't mean others don't.

Oh I don't expect the truck to last 2-3 years I expect it to last 4 - 5 or even longer.

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Lets be frank here. Cars are not trucks. I can find a ton of used cars in the sub $3000 price bracket that are likely to last. They also started out with a sub-$15k price tag. Your Sunbird, etc are not the same category as a pick up truck, nor is your Jimmy for that matter.

Let's try and stay away from the assumptions, like I don't know what to look for, ok? I've bought and sold a ton of vehicles over the years, both personal and fleet. Lots of pre-owned. I know what makes have certain issues to look for, and the difference between a sticky valve, and a loud fuel injector. Up until a few years ago, unless it required a hoist, I turned a wrench on all my vehicles, and even then, I often borrowed a buddies hoist and did stuff like exhaust myself. So don't be insulting. I'm not the guy who came on here and slagged guys who have chosen to buy new as fools. ( I know you weren't, but I'm making a point).

There are a ton of trucks on Kijiji right now for less than $3000. 99% of them have between 200-400K on them. Are there probably a few gems in there? Sure. Would I be willing to give odds that even a couple of those gems may have a major repair in the next 2-4 years? I'd put it at 50-50.

But as you mentioned. You're not doing daily driving, so wear and tear become almost nil for a guy like you....yes, they might fit the bill.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

There are no rotors that cost 400.00 not even with the bearing, if you pay that I will laugh at you. Also I buy trucks and caras with well under 200 and usually around 100K

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Ok GW, obviously someone tinkled in your cornflakes this am, because that's two posts in a row where you're being a bit insulting.

For the record, if you're going to talk auto parts...yeah, I'm picky. I don't cheap out on brake components, or very many others. The cheap stuff never lasts as long, and they usually put out a ton more dust. I don't know if you've had to do brake work on any of the newer ( 2012+) Chev or Ford trucks, but I can indeed tell you that brake components for them are climbing into that bracket.

Bluebulldog, for starters I can tell you are buy your parts from the manufacture and pay alot for a bunch of crap. Yeah I used to buy my hub bearings from GM at a cost of 400 and they would last about 12 months in the bush. I now buy cheap ones and the last pair have been on for 2 years I paid 50 bucks each. Yeah I buy the cheap parts (By the way so does GM found out they were buying their brake lines from where I did). My brake pads will last as long as your if not longer. Some cheap parts I stay away from. But I will give you a good example Moog Ball Joints at Ford were 100 bucks I buy them for 40 bucks. Same part just Ford wants to rip you off.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bluebulldog

Ok GW, obviously someone tinkled in your cornflakes this am, because that's two posts in a row where you're being a bit insulting.

For the record, if you're going to talk auto parts...yeah, I'm picky. I don't cheap out on brake components, or very many others. The cheap stuff never lasts as long, and they usually put out a ton more dust. I don't know if you've had to do brake work on any of the newer ( 2012+) Chev or Ford trucks, but I can indeed tell you that brake components for them are climbing into that bracket.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

Bluebulldog, for starters I can tell you are buy your parts from the manufacture and pay alot for a bunch of crap. Yeah I used to buy my hub bearings from GM at a cost of 400 and they would last about 12 months in the bush.

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Usually Gord Davenports, or Napa. But we are still pretty picky. We don't spec Motorcraft, or Delco, or any "Authentic" replacement parts, we usually go with higher end, aftermarket, just not Chinese made. ( even some of those are ok)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

Well looking around you cannot find anything that isn't a wreck or has almost 300,000 KM on it and than they still want 80000 for it. Three year ago I could buy a 10 year old truck for less than 2 grand and less than 100,000 KM on it. Now you cant even buy anything. It appears my Truck has gone up in value by 1200 over what I paid.

My Price for a truck was going to be 3000 for a 10 year old 4x4 small truck with 150,000 KM on it. But even if I go to 5000 you cannot find much with under 250,000 KM on it and most have 3000,000.

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You're essentially saying what I already posted. yeah I get it, it's frustrating. But truth nonetheless.

Our dollar just dropped a while ago against the US as well, which means the US market has been influencing our availability, and pricing up here as well. Quite a bit of the good stuff, is being shipped across the border.

My 2004 Titan SE, crew cab, 260,000km, was traded in at the dealer, who gave me a surprisingly good value for it. It disappeared..... I didn't know where it went, but I know it didn't go locally. It would have been a truck that fit your bill ( well except it was full sized)....turns out it went down to the US 3 days after I traded it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

Has anyone who might be looking for a used truck noticed how lately they have gone up by 25%. I was thinking of selling my Jimmy and getting a Pickup. My Jimmy is a 2001 and in very good shape with 150K. I paid 2800 for it about 3.5 years ago. Now with the ATV I was thinking maybe a small 4x4 pickup might be better so I have been looking for something older 2004 and newer. Well looking around you cannot find anything that isn't a wreck or has almost 300,000 KM on it and than they still want 80000 for it. Three year ago I could buy a 10 year old truck for less than 2 grand and less than 100,000 KM on it. Now you cant even buy anything. It appears my Truck has gone up in value by 1200 over what I paid. Tempted to list it but don't think I will sell before I find something else.

My Price for a truck was going to be 3000 for a 10 year old 4x4 small truck with 150,000 KM on it. But even if I go to 5000 you cannot find much with under 250,000 KM on it and most have 3000,000.

Wow

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You have to look at the new value now verses then. Go price a new one and tell us what you get for the same $$$ your Jimmy was new.


When they were blowing out Jimmy's you could get them for 17k.

I have an 11 F150 with 249k on it and with what I was offered for it by a dealer three weeks ago, that's likely where it will go....

Course to be fair, they've done all maintenance including the big stuff I did as preventative so they know its condition.

Good luck with your search and let us know what you find.

I did see a ford F150 on the side of harmony road in north Oshawa that had 300k and a price written on it of $6500 - no idea of its mechanical condition but you may want to look at it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

There are no rotors that cost 400.00 not even with the bearing, if you pay that I will laugh at you. Also I buy trucks and caras with well under 200 and usually around 100K

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You realize that your jimmy/blazer/s10/sonoma came out in 1982. And for the most part the parts are interchangeable until the end of their production run circa 2004. Granted they switched to hub style rotors in 1994. But even then 10 years of multi vehicle parts are going to be cheap. You can't compare apples to oranges.

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rippin_355

You realize that your jimmy/blazer/s10/sonoma came out in 1982. And for the most part the parts are interchangeable until the end of their production run circa 2004. Granted they switched to hub style rotors in 1994. But even then 10 years of multi vehicle parts are going to be cheap. You can't compare apples to oranges.

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk

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Hang on there - there was a major change in the S10 in about 1994 when it went from a square body shape to the Isuzu platform. Almost nothing will be exchangeable pre/post that change. The post 1994 are generally high maintenance junk. The pre 1994 were a lot like the 1988-1998 full size.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bluebulldog

My 2004 Titan SE, crew cab, 260,000km, was traded in at the dealer, who gave me a surprisingly good value for it. It disappeared..... I didn't know where it went, but I know it didn't go locally.

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Maybe,someone scooped it up to build a beater "bush truck" for the hunt camp. There's a guy around the corner from me that bought one that was written off in a collision from Dom's Autowreckers. He removed all the electronics except ignition,took the seats out and replaced them with web "jump" seats,put a lifter kit and heavy lug tread mudders with a tow bar on it and this thing is now called The War Wagon. It's at his camp covered with a tarp.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trimmer21

Maybe,someone scooped it up to build a beater "bush truck" for the hunt camp. There's a guy around the corner from me that bought one that was written off in a collision from Dom's Autowreckers. He removed all the electronics except ignition,took the seats out and replaced them with web "jump" seats,put a lifter kit and heavy lug tread mudders with a tow bar on it and this thing is now called The War Wagon. It's at his camp covered with a tarp.

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No. I asked the owner of the dealership. He said it went South, and quite a few decent full sized pick ups he's had traded in have gone the same route, through a wholesaler up here. Because they have a fairly decent idea of what they want, it was one of the reasons he gave me a really good price for the trade.

For some reason this reminded me of this thread GW...

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps7d3rxsui.jpg

Was at an estate auction yesterday and a 99 Sierra 4x4 with only 200k on it sold for $4,200....heck of a good deal. Well maintained and virtually no rust. Would last the guy for many years to come.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...pspcpga99z.jpg

That's not to bad of a price.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikePal

Was at an estate auction yesterday and a 99 Sierra 4x4 with only 200k on it sold for $4,200....heck of a good deal. Well maintained and virtually no rust. Would last the guy for many years to come.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...pspcpga99z.jpg

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Three years ago I paid $6500 for my '06 Sierra extended cab with 150k in almost mind condition. Same truck now is easy 9-12k.

I blame Luke Brian and Blake Shelton for making all the city kids want trucks.

-Nick

The price of trucks, and the mentality of them buying them can never be explained. My dad got on my case this summer about paying 38,500 for my BRAND NEW with only 12KM on it truck. Told my he only paid 38,000 for his two year old used one with 120,000Km on it. Some how buying a two year old truck with 120,000Km on it for $38,000 makes more sense then me buying a new one for $38,500.:confused:

I would say it depends on the make, model and options. Those 'extras', that you 'must' have, sometimes cost as much as the basic truck, if you add them up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fishermccann

I would say it depends on the make, model and options. Those 'extras', that you 'must' have, sometimes cost as much as the basic truck, if you add them up.

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My new truck is a fully loaded Tacoma. My dad's truck is a mid grade ford.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

My new truck is a fully loaded Tacoma. My dad's truck is a mid grade ford.

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Your dad probably doesn't associate your truck with having more value than his. Despite being worth far more over it's useful life.

I got 5000 plus tax as a trade in for my 05 F150 with 240K KM'S. I was quite happy with that. I may have been able to get 6000-6500 privately but it wasn't worth the hassle to me.

My new F150, and I'm very happy with it! It gets much better mileage than my old 5.4. This one has the 5.0.

http://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f150...def900db90.jpg

http://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f150...ad0cf8656e.jpg

Splurged on this hitch, but it will never rust. Everything is aluminum including the locking pins (stainless/aluminum).

http://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f150...be64bf3dbf.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

Splurged on this hitch, but it will never rust. Everything is aluminum including the locking pins .

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And don't forget the yearly yellow sticker inspection just to pull a 5X6 garden trailer, trailer with quads/skidoos, or anything other then a camper or boat. Though I have heard of guys getting harassed well pulling boats. You can't even rent a u-haul trailer in Ontario now without it on a truck that big....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

And don't forget the yearly yellow sticker inspection just to pull a 5X6 garden trailer, trailer with quads/skidoos, or anything other then a camper or boat. Though I have heard of guys getting harassed well pulling boats. You can't even rent a u-haul trailer in Ontario now without it on a truck that big....

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Nah, you don't need safeties for those sized trailers with a half ton.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

Nah, you don't need safeties for those sized trailers with a half ton.

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Your truck can tow 10,000 or more.. so if you are pulling anything other then a camper or boat they can stop and inspect and then ticket you for not having one. You will also NOT be able to drive away till it has been inspected. You would have to have it towed to a shop that does inspection certications.
Hate to tell you but ALL pickup are considered commercial in Ontario.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

Your truck can tow 10,000 or more.. so if you are pulling anything other then a camper or boat they can stop and inspect and then ticket you for not having one. You will also NOT be able to drive away till it has been inspected. You would have to have it towed to a shop that does inspection certications.
Hate to tell you but ALL pickup are considered commercial in Ontario.

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I'm pretty sure you're talking to an MTO inspector? I'll take what he says right to the bank.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

Your truck can tow 10,000 or more.. so if you are pulling anything other then a camper or boat they can stop and inspect and then ticket you for not having one. You will also NOT be able to drive away till it has been inspected. You would have to have it towed to a shop that does inspection certications.
Hate to tell you but ALL pickup are considered commercial in Ontario.

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You're right about all pickups falling under the definition of CMV. :)

As I said, a half ton with a small single axle trailer is good to go. I have two of them (boat trailer and utility for ATV) and I don't have safeties because none are required.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bushmoose

I'm pretty sure you're talking to an MTO inspector? I'll take what he says right to the bank.

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Since 1998 (with MTO, but started in Gov't in 89). I'm old.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bushmoose

I'm pretty sure you're talking to an MTO inspector? I'll take what he says right to the bank.

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Other side of the counter...

Every spring and every fall they setup and inspect just north of TO on the 400. Lots of trips get cut short.
When guys from our west where hauling stuff home to the east this spring, a lot of trucks got ticketed. Most of them had the standard F150/1500 half ton truck pulling u-haul trailers behind their personal vehicle not a company or CMV plated truck. When they do the safety blitz they inspect everything with wheels.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

You're right about all pickups falling under the definition of CMV. :)
As I said, a half ton with a small single axle trailer is good to go. I have two of them (boat trailer and utility for ATV) and I don't have safeties because none are required.
Since 1998 (with MTO, but started in Gov't in 89). I'm old.

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So why are your buddies writing tickets to people pulling utility and atv trailers for no sticker?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

So why are your buddies writing tickets to people pulling utility and atv trailers for no sticker?

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I've done a few of these blitzes and lots of tickets are handed out for stuff other than safeties. We're specifically talking about safeties here. Either that or somebody doesn't know what they're doing.

can anyone post a link to a good & reliable summary, please?
so if the combined gross weight of truck and trailer is above 4500kg, I need that sticker (i.e. doesn't matter if big truck & small trailer or small truck & big trailer), private or commercial)?
Where is the boat exemption mentioned? I found something on RVs, but not the boat.
And if RVs are exempted, you should be able to pull with a 1500 as much as the manufacturer specifies without sticker, correct?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

I've done a few of these blitzes and lots of tickets are handed out for stuff other than safeties. We're specifically talking about safeties here. Either that or somebody doesn't know what they're doing.

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Yes I am also. They where ticketed for not having the yellow commercial safety sticker. Some where driving through ontario with a u-haul trailer, or towing their car to or from shows or an event. Basically if you pulled my utility trailer with a sport utility they are saying that it is fine without the safety, but if you pull it with a half ton pickup you need a safety. I can also pull it with my tacoma and not need the safety because the rating for towing is "less" then 10,000lbs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waftrudnir

can anyone post a link to a good & reliable summary, please?
so if the combined gross weight of truck and trailer is above 4500kg, I need that sticker (i.e. doesn't matter if big truck & small trailer or small truck & big trailer), private or commercial)?
Where is the boat exemption mentioned? I found something on RVs, but not the boat.
And if RVs are exempted, you should be able to pull with a 1500 as much as the manufacturer specifies without sticker, correct?

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You can pull most campers and boats without the sticker. As for needing the sticker they are telling the people that it is based on what you can pull, not what you are pulling. But camper and boat trailers are listed as an exemption.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

Yes I am also. They where ticketed for not having the yellow commercial safety sticker. Some where driving through ontario with a u-haul trailer, or towing their car to or from shows or an event. Basically if you pulled my utility trailer with a sport utility they are saying that it is fine without the safety, but if you pull it with a half ton pickup you need a safety. I can also pull it with my tacoma and not need the safety because the rating for towing is "less" then 10,000lbs.

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I can only guess because I wasn't there, but those UHauls/car trailers were probably tandem axles, which is a whole different kettle of fish. You started out by talking about a small 4x6 (or whatever) single axle trailer and a half ton. My utility trailer is a 5x10 single axle and it doesn't require a safety when being hauled by my F150.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

I can only guess because I wasn't there, but those UHauls/car trailers were probably tandem axles, which is a whole different kettle of fish. You started out by talking about a small 4x6 (or whatever) single axle trailer and a half ton. My utility trailer is a 5x10 single axle and it doesn't require a safety when being hauled by my F150.

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My utility is only a little bigger( 8 X 10 ) and single axle as well. They say the requirement for the sticker is based on what you're truck "can" tow not on what your are currently pulling. Campers and boat trailers are exempt. The safety is for the truck not the trailer. Don't know if you where thinking I mean the trailer.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

My utility is only a little bigger( 8 X 10 ) and single axle as well. They say the requirement for the sticker is based on what you're truck "can" tow not on what your are currently pulling. Campers and boat trailers are exempt. The safety is for the truck not the trailer. Don't know if you where thinking I mean the trailer.

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If the MGVWR of your truck and trailer when added up exceed 4500KG's then you need a sticker on both truck and trailer. Read the manufacturers sticker on truck and trailer to determine.
It's based on three things:
1. Actual weight (if both truck and trailer weigh more than 4500 kg's you need stickers)
2. Registered gross weight (if over 4500 kg's you need stickers and this would be indicated on ownership of power unit, it's what you pay for when getting val tag)
3. MGVWR (if manufacturer stickers of BOTH truck and trailer when added together exceed 4500 kg's you need stickers on both)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

If the MGVWR of your truck and trailer when added up exceed 4500KG's then you need a sticker on both truck and trailer. Read the manufacturers sticker on truck and trailer to determine.
It's based on three things:
1. Actual weight (if both truck and trailer weigh more than 4500 kg's you need stickers)
2. Registered gross weight (if over 4500 kg's you need stickers and this would be indicated on ownership of power unit, it's what you pay for when getting val tag)
3. MGVWR (if manufacturer stickers of BOTH truck and trailer when added together exceed 4500 kg's you need stickers on both)

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so to get that straight; a 1500 with the typical 4x8 utility trailer wouldn't need one, but say a 4-Runner with a 6x12 u-haul would? please can anyone share the official reference where it reads that boat trailers are exempt

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waftrudnir

so to get that straight; a 1500 with the typical 4x8 utility trailer wouldn't need one, but say a 4-Runner with a 6x12 u-haul would? please can anyone share the official reference where it reads that boat trailers are exempt

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Correct on the 1500 with 4x8.
A 4 Runner is not a CMV (like an RV), so no stickers required when hauling a U Haul. Boat trailers are not exempt however a blind eye may be turned for many.
It's in the Act but I'm too lazy to look it up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

If the MGVWR of your truck and trailer when added up exceed 4500KG's then you need a sticker on both truck and trailer. Read the manufacturers sticker on truck and trailer to determine.
It's based on three things:
1. Actual weight (if both truck and trailer weigh more than 4500 kg's you need stickers)
2. Registered gross weight (if over 4500 kg's you need stickers and this would be indicated on ownership of power unit, it's what you pay for when getting val tag)
3. MGVWR (if manufacturer stickers of BOTH truck and trailer when added together exceed 4500 kg's you need stickers on both)

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Lightest GVWR I can find for a 2010 F150 is 6450lbs... So if your trailer is rated at 3450 or more you would have to have stickers for both right? My single axle trailer is rated at 3500lbs, so it would put "any" half ton pickup over the limit if it's curb weight is 6400lbs or more. We can pull the 3500lbs rated trailer with the 4runner( sport utility) or the tacoma( below the 6400lbs limit ). It does not take a very big trailer to put the combo over the 9900lbs/4500kg limit.

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

Lightest GVWR I can find for a 2010 F150 is 6450lbs... So if your trailer is rated at 3450 or more you would have to have stickers for both right? My single axle trailer is rated at 3500lbs, so it would put "any" half ton pickup over the limit if it's curb weight is 6400lbs or more. We can pull the 3500lbs rated trailer with the 4runner( sport utility) or the tacoma( below the 6400lbs limit ). It does not take a very big trailer to put the combo over the 9900lbs/4500kg limit.

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Everything is in Kilograms. You're talking pounds.

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

Correct on the 1500 with 4x8.
A 4 Runner is not a CMV (like an RV), so no stickers required when hauling a U Haul. Boat trailers are not exempt however a blind eye may be turned for many.
It's in the Act but I'm too lazy to look it up.

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that means the guy hauling a good size empty trailer with a F150 gets the fine, while the one with an fully loaded Excursion and same trailer wouldn't even get stopped.
just determining if I will get a truck again...

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Originally Posted by Waftrudnir

that means the guy hauling a good size empty trailer with a F150 gets the fine, while the one with an fully loaded Excursion and same trailer wouldn't even get stopped.
just determining if I will get a truck again...

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Correct since the Excursion doesn't fall under the definition of CMV (permanent delivery body attached, blah blah).

Now, I will say there have been matters of differences in opinions on this between officers however, if you get charged while hauling with an SUV I'd fight it because as per definition safeties only relate to CMV's, and an SUV isn't a CMV. It could be though, if all the rear seats were ripped out and it was commercially plated, but...

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

Everything is in Kilograms. You're talking pounds.

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OK in kg's
Truck 2931.81....Kg
Trailer 1568.18.....Kg
Total 4502.99kg
My trailer is 1590.90Kg so with your truck if it was the Lightest 4 X 2 standard cab 4.6L motor model at 2931 KG the total weight is 4521Kg. I don't think you have to smallest Lightest F-150 version.

What is the GVWR for your truck, and what is your trailer rated at?

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

Correct since the Excursion doesn't fall under the definition of CMV (permanent delivery body attached, blah blah).

Now, I will say there have been matters of differences in opinions on this between officers however, if you get charged while hauling with an SUV I'd fight it because as per definition safeties only relate to CMV's, and an SUV isn't a CMV. It could be though, if all the rear seats were ripped out and it was commercially plated, but...

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This exemption for the SUV causes a few Scarey things...Rag top jeep YJ with V6 pulling trailers that weight equal to or very close too the jeep it's self needs no stickers. The same trailer behind a F-150/1500 half ton truck( which is made for the weight ) has have both truck and trailer stickered.

I would feel safer about the pickup then I would about the jeep.

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

OK in kg's
Truck 2931.81....Kg
Trailer 1568.18.....Kg
Total 4502.99kg
My trailer is 1590.90Kg so with your truck if it was the Lightest 4 X 2 standard cab 4.6L motor model at 2931 KG the total weight is 4521Kg. I don't think you have to smallest Lightest F-150 version.

What is the GVWR for your truck, and what is your trailer rated at?

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My truck is 3175 kg's (which is definitely higher than my previous F150 which was a similar configuration) and the trailer is around 1200-1300 kg's, so it's close.

Goes to show these new trucks are rated higher so small single axle trailers could fall into the safety game.
In past years they never fell into the game.

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

This exemption for the SUV causes a few Scarey things...Rag top jeep YJ with V6 pulling trailers that weight equal to or very close too the jeep it's self needs no stickers. The same trailer behind a F-150/1500 half ton truck( which is made for the weight ) has have both truck and trailer stickered.

I would feel safer about the pickup then I would about the jeep.

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I don't disagree but that's the way the law is written.

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

You made me go out and look. My truck is 3175 KG's but I don't have the trailer here to check the actual number (I think it's around 1200-1300 KG's).
Technically you require stickers with the numbers you provided... kinda sucks when it's over by 2 kg's however I'm not sure where you got the decimal numbers (.81 and .18) because the numbers are never indicated that way on the stickers.

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Converting pounds to KG....I just work to the second or third decimal out of habit. Good practice with electronics.....Guess it sucks in conversations. I would guess your combo is just under by about 100kg...or a 220lbs fat dude like me..:silly:

Just think. You decide to borrow a buddies trailer it's rated at 1326kg. You get stopped on the way home and your one kg over. Now you know the next trailer size up from yours and your over the limit by a wide margin right?

That is how I think people are getting the tickets. Truck weight plus trailer weight exceedso the limit because must pickups the we buy are near or OVER half way to the 4500kg limit before we even add a trailer.

Now don't get me wrong. I totally agree with idea of taking steps to make the roads as safe as possible, but a lot of people are getting nailed well others get a pass. Two guys buy family cars. One gets a SUV the other a supercab. The guy with the supercab is on the ball with a proper hitch and weight distribution setup etc. The SUV guy just drops it on the ball and goes. Supercab gets a few thousand dollars in fines and costs because he was 50kg over the limit. SUV gets the wave through just because there are no flat tires and he is not riding on the bumper stops because of the "self leveling" air bags rear suspension.

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

Goes to show these new trucks are rated higher so small single axle trailers could fall into the safety game.
In past years they never fell into the game.

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Every year or two the "half tons" get bigger. When I was a kid a F150 was about 1900kg.
Now they are over 3000kg.

What size trailer do you think it would take to put one of those F-250's over the limit? I am guessing not darn much of one.

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

Converting pounds to KG....I just work to the second or third decimal out of habit. Good practice with electronics.....Guess it sucks in conversations. I would guess your combo is just under by about 100kg...or a 220lbs fat dude like me..:silly:

Just think. You decide to borrow a buddies trailer it's rated at 1326kg. You get stopped on the way home and your one kg over. Now you know the next trailer size up from yours and your over the limit by a wide margin right?

That is how I think people are getting the tickets. Truck weight plus trailer weight exceedso the limit because must pickups the we buy are near or OVER half way to the 4500kg limit before we even add a trailer.

Now don't get me wrong. I totally agree with idea of taking steps to make the roads as safe as possible, but a lot of people are getting nailed well others get a pass. Two guys buy family cars. One gets a SUV the other a supercab. The guy with the supercab is on the ball with a proper hitch and weight distribution setup etc. The SUV guy just drops it on the ball and goes. Supercab gets a few thousand dollars in fines and costs because he was 50kg over the limit. SUV gets the wave through just because there are no flat tires and he is not riding on the bumper stops because of the "self leveling" air bags rear suspension.

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They should up that 4500 to 5000. :)

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

Every year or two the "half tons" get bigger. When I was a kid a F150 was about 1900kg.
Now they are over 3000kg.

What size trailer do you think it would take to put one of those F-250's over the limit? I am guessing not darn much of one.

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An F250 these days probably requires a sticker on it's own. I'll have to check that out because I usually deal with bigger trucks. In previous years it wasn't until you had an F350 that the truck required a sticker on it's own and they were always rated at around 4536 KG's or just enough to require a sticker before they even left the showroom floor. .

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

An F250 these days probably requires a sticker on it's own. I'll have to check that out because I usually deal with bigger trucks. In previous years it wasn't until you had an F350 that the truck required a sticker on it's own and they were always rated at around 4536 KG's or just enough to require a sticker before they even left the showroom floor. .

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A 2010 F150 supercab with a 163in wheelbase and the 5.2l HD package weights 8,200 lbs(3727Kg).
And that is a smaller looking truck next to a 2015/2016.
They get bigger, they are heavier, and they sink deeper every time they get stuck. By the way it only takes a ton and a half to pull your truck in half. The means a 9000lbs( 4090kg) winch can destroy your frame with just over 4 tons of force.

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

A 2010 F150 supercab with a 163in wheelbase and the 5.2l HD package weights 8,200 lbs(3727Kg).
And that is a smaller looking truck next to a 2015/2016.
They get bigger, they are heavier, and they sink deeper every time they get stuck. By the way it only takes a ton and a half to pull your truck in half. The means a 9000lbs( 4090kg) winch can destroy your frame with just over 4 tons of force.

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Yeah that's the HD package though. Actually this 2016 F150 I have now is roughly 700 lb's lighter than my previous truck (same configuration) because these new one's are made of aluminum (the bodies).

I just looked at my 2016 Ram crew cab Ecodiesel . GVWR 6950 lbs / 3153 kg

I guess I will have to start pulling my single axle 6x12 landscape trailer rated for 3500 lbs with my wife's Pontiac G5 to stay legal and make the roads safer.

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

This exemption for the SUV causes a few Scarey things...Rag top jeep YJ with V6 pulling trailers that weight equal to or very close too the jeep it's self needs no stickers. The same trailer behind a F-150/1500 half ton truck( which is made for the weight ) has have both truck and trailer stickered.

I would feel safer about the pickup then I would about the jeep.

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Just read what it says on the plate: Ontario - Yours to discover...

But that problem is easy to fix from a government perspective, don't need to wait too long before:
For safety sake, we will all require a safety inspection at the time of plate sticker renewal - no exemptions. and as they have to look at another piece of paper, it would be a great opportunity to increase the fee by say another 30% (plus the expense for the inspection of course). and as some cars will not pass, they - typically those who cannot afford anything better in the first place - will be happy to hear that they are presented with the opportunity to buy something else. weren't we just talking about how much used vehicle prices went up???
well, one just needs to believe religiously that the more you spend the more prosperous and rich you become. just believe it, all our great leaders do now and they really walk the walk when it comes to blowing our tax money

sorry for the rant, but if rules don't make sense it's easy to speculate what they are intended for...

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Originally Posted by Waftrudnir

well, one just needs to believe religiously that the more you spend the more prosperous and rich you become. just believe it, all our great leaders do now and they really walk the walk when it comes to blowing our tax money

sorry for the rant, but if rules don't make sense it's easy to speculate what they are intended for...

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Same could be said for the driveclean.

Implemented as a measure to reduce pollution, made industry spend millions on the equipment to test, and then phase it out and make it just a "readiness monitor" check which can be done with most commercially available OBD II diagnostics.

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

Splurged on this hitch, but it will never rust. Everything is aluminum including the locking pins (stainless/aluminum).

http://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f150...be64bf3dbf.jpg

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Very nice! I don't even wanna know what that's worth. 2 5/16" and 1 7/8"?

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Originally Posted by B Wilson

I just looked at my 2016 Ram crew cab Ecodiesel . GVWR 6950 lbs / 3153 kg

I guess I will have to start pulling my single axle 6x12 landscape trailer rated for 3500 lbs with my wife's Pontiac G5 to stay legal and make the roads safer.

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You probably the guy with weight distribution hitch and Sway control on the truck too. I work at a place where I can give one of the guys a few bucks and have the inspection done and sticker done while I work. But where does someone that is not like me or Rick go. Most people don't even know about the weight limit and sticker, let alone where to have the inspection done.
Here is the real kicker. If I have a truck and trailer that are over the limit as a combination unit and they both have to have stickers, how do I drive them to a shop for the inspection without being illegal?:sad:

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

You probably the guy with weight distribution hitch and Sway control on the truck too. I work at a place where I can give one of the guys a few bucks and have the inspection done and sticker done while I work. But where does someone that is not like me or Rick go. Most people don't even know about the weight limit and sticker, let alone where to have the inspection done.
Here is the real kicker. If I have a truck and trailer that are over the limit as a combination unit and they both have to have stickers, how do I drive them to a shop for the inspection without being illegal?:sad:

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I tried to read up on that stuff, and did not find a reliable and comprehensive source; however, I read somewhere on the MTO site that towing and getting it to the inspection are the only exemptions.
Regarding the price tag for the inspection, I read it's close to $100. Wouldn't it then be nearly $200 (1 truck & 1 trailer) plus the hassle EVERY year (on top of everything else) to get out for a couple of weekends?

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Originally Posted by Waftrudnir

I tried to read up on that stuff, and did not find a reliable and comprehensive source; however, I read somewhere on the MTO site that towing and getting it to the inspection are the only exemptions.
Regarding the price tag for the inspection, I read it's close to $100. Wouldn't it then be nearly $200 (1 truck & 1 trailer) plus the hassle EVERY year (on top of everything else) to get out for a couple of weekends?

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Only costs me a timmies and a box of dounuts. Bet it would be about the same price for Rick.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waftrudnir

I tried to read up on that stuff, and did not find a reliable and comprehensive source; however, I read somewhere on the MTO site that towing and getting it to the inspection are the only exemptions.
Regarding the price tag for the inspection, I read it's close to $100. Wouldn't it then be nearly $200 (1 truck & 1 trailer) plus the hassle EVERY year (on top of everything else) to get out for a couple of weekends?

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it will be more than $ 200, the shop is going to charge an hour labour for each vehicle, and then there is cost of the yellow stickers (big government)

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

You probably the guy with weight distribution hitch and Sway control on the truck too. I work at a place where I can give one of the guys a few bucks and have the inspection done and sticker done while I work. But where does someone that is not like me or Rick go. Most people don't even know about the weight limit and sticker, let alone where to have the inspection done.
Here is the real kicker. If I have a truck and trailer that are over the limit as a combination unit and they both have to have stickers, how do I drive them to a shop for the inspection without being illegal?:sad:

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no weight distributing hitch yet, but soon. I also have a 7X14 tandem axle enclosed trailer. I feel a real difference towing with the Ram with rear coil suspension compared to my old Chevy with leaf springs, so I would like to add a weight distributing hitch to move some of the weight up to the front axle and put some weight back onto the trailer axles. I am required to have yellow stickers for the truck and enclosed trailer, but it drives me nuts that I need to have a annual safety and yellow sticker on a little landscape trailer that if pulled by a car wouldn't require it and know which one is a safer towing combination.

I will continue to run the risk of getting pulled over when using the landscape trailer. I only use it 3 or 4 times a year for short trips.

If the government really wanted to make the roads a safer place for motorists, they would make it mandatory for annual safety checks on all cars before renewing license stickers. A few months ago I drove my wife's car for the first time in a couple of years, the next day I took to have the brakes checked, the front pads were down to the rivets, I have no idea how she did not cause an accident. And I know she isn't the only one out there who neglects basic maintenance of cars.

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Originally Posted by LowbanksArcher

Very nice! I don't even wanna know what that's worth. 2 5/16" and 1 7/8"?

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1 7/8 and 2 1/8. Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waftrudnir

I tried to read up on that stuff, and did not find a reliable and comprehensive source; however, I read somewhere on the MTO site that towing and getting it to the inspection are the only exemptions.
Regarding the price tag for the inspection, I read it's close to $100. Wouldn't it then be nearly $200 (1 truck & 1 trailer) plus the hassle EVERY year (on top of everything else) to get out for a couple of weekends?

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Yep, tow, dealer plate (unladen), or in transit permit.

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Originally Posted by B Wilson

no weight distributing hitch yet, but soon. I also have a 7X14 tandem axle enclosed trailer. I feel a real difference towing with the Ram with rear coil suspension compared to my old Chevy with leaf springs, so I would like to add a weight distributing hitch to move some of the weight up to the front axle and put some weight back onto the trailer axles. I am required to have yellow stickers for the truck and enclosed trailer, but it drives me nuts that I need to have a annual safety and yellow sticker on a little landscape trailer that if pulled by a car wouldn't require it and know which one is a safer towing combination.

I will continue to run the risk of getting pulled over when using the landscape trailer. I only use it 3 or 4 times a year for short trips.

If the government really wanted to make the roads a safer place for motorists, they would make it mandatory for annual safety checks on all cars before renewing license stickers. A few months ago I drove my wife's car for the first time in a couple of years, the next day I took to have the brakes checked, the front pads were down to the rivets, I have no idea how she did not cause an accident. And I know she isn't the only one out there who neglects basic maintenance of cars.

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Careful what you wish for!

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

Splurged on this hitch, but it will never rust. Everything is aluminum including the locking pins (stainless/aluminum).

http://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f150...be64bf3dbf.jpg

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It may not rust, but the salt will definitely make it corrode. My neighbor has the same hitch, and after a long, salty winter, the pin that is used for height adjustment was stuck in place. It took a great deal of "persuading" to remove it and then to break the ball free so that it could be reversed. I see that your pin appears to be stainless, so maybe that may help.

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Originally Posted by delmer

It may not rust, but the salt will definitely make it corrode. My neighbor has the same hitch, and after a long, salty winter, the pin that is used for height adjustment was stuck in place. It took a great deal of "persuading" to remove it and then to break the ball free so that it could be reversed. I see that your pin appears to be stainless, so maybe that may help.

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Yeah the pin is stainless and the heads are aluminum, plus I'll take it off periodically and and wipe it down. Shiny balls!

It's an Andersen Rapid Hitch and the locking pins are made by Andersen as well, so it should be 99% rust free, unless crap gets into the locks themselves but it shouldn't with those rubber caps.

Attachment 33555

This is the hitch I mentioned. Looks to be the same as yours, except with several years use. If you take things apart periodically like you say you intend to do, there shouldn't be any issues. My neighbor learned that lesson the hard way.

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Originally Posted by delmer

Attachment 33555

This is the hitch I mentioned. Looks to be the same as yours, except with several years use. If you take things apart periodically like you say you intend to do, there shouldn't be any issues. My neighbor learned that lesson the hard way.

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Yeah, that looks like the same hitch. The nice thing about aluminum is it can be easily polished to look like new again.

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

1 7/8 and 2 1/8. Thanks!

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2 1/8? That's a new one

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Originally Posted by LowbanksArcher

2 1/8? That's a new one

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Oops. 2".

for the first time in my life I am considering a pickup... I really like the GMC Sierra. Still hesitating a bit b/c we arent't sure that it will also make a good "family car". I buy used only. Do these vehicles still have lots of reliable life left if buying at 4 or 5 year old (say under 120K)? I haven't owned a domestic car in years as I've been driving Japanese mostly (Nissan or Toyota).

And b/w the "big 3" which tends to be more reliable? I keep seeing the best reviews for reliability from Chevy/GMC products...

GMC Sierra..great truck...long lasting, very reliable.....great for a Man and his Dog..IMHO, lousy family vehicle.

Assumming the engine has not been abused. I would expect to get at least 400K. However after 200K you might need to replace stuff like the muffler, brakes, wires, alternator and starter.

I have 289,000 on my 2000 Sunfire and 301,000 on the 2008 Hyundai I still expect to drive both of these for another 2 years. My Jimmy has 151,000 I expect the engine to last at least 400K it does need new ball joints and hub bearings.

We have not had great luck with our sierra pickup cruisers. The one we have is on its second transmission in 80k kms and the new tranny is clunking again. The fords have been ok and now we have a new fleet of rams. Time will tell.
My personal truck is a ford as was my last truck. Plenty of room for the family. The super crews have a ton of leg space in. The back.

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

We have not had great luck with our sierra pickup cruisers. The one we have is on its second transmission in 80k kms and the new tranny is clunking again. The fords have been ok and now we have a new fleet of rams. Time will tell.
My personal truck is a ford as was my last truck. Plenty of room for the family. The super crews have a ton of leg space in. The back.

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We have had a collection of Rams go through our fleet, and they don't seem to have the best engineering on the drivelines. Fords a good bet, but as we all know from my posts, I'm pretty much a Nissan guy....

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Originally Posted by MikePal

GMC Sierra..great truck...long lasting, very reliable.....great for a Man and his Dog..IMHO, lousy family vehicle.

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Really? Seems like the GM products have easier entry/exit... lower to the ground, it seems to me. But what do I know?

The back seat looks massive (in all of them big pickups for that matter..).

So why would you characterize it as a "lousy" family car?

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Originally Posted by MikePal

GMC Sierra..great truck...long lasting, very reliable.....great for a Man and his Dog..IMHO, lousy family vehicle.

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I'm curious where this comes from as well. I definitely can't complain about the space in my Sierra. All the crew cab trucks had ample room.

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

Yeah the pin is stainless and the heads are aluminum, plus I'll take it off periodically and and wipe it down. Shiny balls!

It's an Andersen Rapid Hitch and the locking pins are made by Andersen as well, so it should be 99% rust free, unless crap gets into the locks themselves but it shouldn't with those rubber caps.

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We have one at work, the pin is aluminum (it has to because aluminum and steel don't mix) and it corroded.
We paid over 300$ for one taller than the one on the picture and no-one wants to use it.
I'm glad I didn't pay for it.

[QUOTE=Bluebulldog;1003015]We have had a collection of Rams go through our fleet, and they don't seem to have the best engineering on the drivelines. Fords a good bet, but as we all know from my posts, I'm pretty much a Nissan guy....[/QUOTE]

How's your gas mileage?! :)

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Originally Posted by seabast

We have one at work, the pin is aluminum (it has to because aluminum and steel don't mix) and it corroded.
We paid over 300$ for one taller than the one on the picture and no-one wants to use it.
I'm glad I didn't pay for it.

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You have the old lock pins then. The new ones are stainless with aluminum heads. These are made specifically for Andersen Rapid Hitches.
Read the first point in the description.
https://www.andersenhitches.com/Imag...ront-smpng.jpg

[COLOR=#333333]Stainless Steel lock set for all Andersen Rapid Hitches (replaces 3434) -includes 1 adjustment pin lock (for the Rapid Hitch) and 1 receiver pin lock for 2", 2-1/2" and oversized receivers.

• Made from Stainless Steel with aluminum heads
• 99.99% rust-free materials
• Receiver pin fits all standard 2" and 2-1/2" receivers
• Adjuster pin fits all Rapid Hitch Models
• Over 30,000 lbs shear strength
• Triple ball bearing and cam-style locking mechanism
• Clik-Lock™ system securely locks with one push (no 'false' locks)
• 2 Heavy-duty keys (keyed alike and reversible)
• Rubber dust cap protects key slot from liquids and other grime
• Provide 24/7 security for your hitch mounted accessories
• Dimensions: Adjuster pin 4-3/8" x 5/8" (inside shank), Receiver pin 3-1/2" x 5/8" (inside shank)

https://www.andersenhitches.com/Prod...receivers.aspx

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Originally Posted by seabast

How's your gas mileage?! :)

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Actually, with my Frontier, it's very good. Hwy I'm getting 10.2-10.5L/100. In town add about 3L to that. But it's also the 4.0L V6.

My Titan was thirsty, which was the only downside I ever had with it. And I traded it in at 260,000.

The new 1500 Titans have gone to direct injection, and are reported to be the best in class for fuel economy at 15.7 City, 11.2 highway, and 13 combined.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Splaker

So why would you characterize it as a "lousy" family car?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by LowbanksArcher

I'm curious where this comes from as well.

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Just parroting the comments from of my buddy who had a Ram P/U prior to having the kids. The first kid's car seat was put in the center of the back bench seat (as recommended) and it was a royal pain trying to get the kid in and out of his car seat. Having to crawl into the back seat to fasten the straps etc...Not to mention never having room for his work gear beside the car seat. The 2nd car seat was just a nightmare.

They bought a Dodge SUV, sliding doors both sides, storage in the back. Far easier to get the kids in and out of the car seats etc. And his wife found it far easier to drive it when she drive the kids someplace.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikePal

They bought a Dodge SUV, sliding doors both sides, storage in the back. Far easier to get the kids in and out of the car seats etc. And his wife found it far easier to drive it when she drive the kids someplace.

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Ah yes...the Dodge "Journey" not quite a minivan, not quite an SUV.....but it gives dad the excuse of saying it's "not a minivan"

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Originally Posted by Bluebulldog

Actually, with my Frontier, it's very good. Hwy I'm getting 10.2-10.5L/100. In town add about 3L to that. But it's also the 4.0L V6.

My Titan was thirsty, which was the only downside I ever had with it. And I traded it in at 260,000.

The new 1500 Titans have gone to direct injection, and are reported to be the best in class for fuel economy at 15.7 City, 11.2 highway, and 13 combined.

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The old Titan was a pig and the new one seems even worse. The GF has a brand new XD, we drove less than a tank and it shows 26l/100km

Quote:

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Originally Posted by seabast

The old Titan was a pig and the new one seems even worse. The GF has a brand new XD, we drove less than a tank and it shows 26l/100km

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That's with the diesel, or the gas?

Wow, I know fuel economy usually sucks with break in period, but that seems pretty excessive.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bluebulldog

Ah yes...the Dodge "Journey" not quite a minivan, not quite an SUV.....but it gives dad the excuse of saying it's "not a minivan"

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Surprising how many guys feel emasculated having to drive a mini-van...they'll clutch at straws trying to rationalize that their beloved P/U is a good family vehicle ..LOL....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikePal

Surprising how many guys feel emasculated having to drive a mini-van...they'll clutch at straws trying to rationalize that their beloved P/U is a good family vehicle ..LOL....

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I loved it when we had a Dodge Grand Caravan, it was the best cottage / family / dog hauler out there. My wife wasn't too crazy about it.

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Originally Posted by Bluebulldog

That's with the diesel, or the gas?

Wow, I know fuel economy usually sucks with break in period, but that seems pretty excessive.

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Gas and it was mostly hwy so it was pretty easy going but we did have a few heavy foot to see how it compare with the old one. The old one seems to have a lot more kick but doesn't have the new fancy gizmo.

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

You have the old lock pins then. The new ones are stainless with aluminum heads. These are made specifically for Andersen Rapid Hitches.
Read the first point in the description.


[COLOR=#333333]Stainless Steel lock set for all Andersen Rapid Hitches (replaces 3434) -includes 1 adjustment pin lock (for the Rapid Hitch) and 1 receiver pin lock for 2", 2-1/2" and oversized receivers.

• Made from Stainless Steel with aluminum heads
• 99.99% rust-free materials
• Receiver pin fits all standard 2" and 2-1/2" receivers
• Adjuster pin fits all Rapid Hitch Models
• Over 30,000 lbs shear strength
• Triple ball bearing and cam-style locking mechanism
• Clik-Lock™ system securely locks with one push (no 'false' locks)
• 2 Heavy-duty keys (keyed alike and reversible)
• Rubber dust cap protects key slot from liquids and other grime
• Provide 24/7 security for your hitch mounted accessories
• Dimensions: Adjuster pin 4-3/8" x 5/8" (inside shank), Receiver pin 3-1/2" x 5/8" (inside shank)

https://www.andersenhitches.com/Prod...receivers.aspx

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I'm not too sure what part is aluminum but if any SS touch the aluminum you will get corrosion, but it might not be that bad in this application....

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Originally Posted by bellerivercrossbowhunter

I bought new as well. RAM 1500 Bighorn with all the bells & whistles. Zero % financing & a great trade in value was hard to turn down.

Love my truck!! lol

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I bought the same but with the ecodiesel crew cab.
The best I got on my trip to new Jersey was over 1100 km on 90 liters of diesel.
In town it does 12-13 liters per 100km.

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When I first got married my 1988 Ford Ranger Standard, Standard Brakes and no power steering bench seat for 3 and only a 2.0 liter engine (The ole Pinto engine). I rebuilt it myself and it was our Main reliable vehicle. My wife, Daughter Alex our pet beagle and myself would drive down to NB in it stopping only for gas for 10 hrs driving.

It was a great family truck, especially driving through the major 40 cm snow storm through Quebec and NB in the dark. :)

https://static1.squarespace.com/stat...ge119+copy.jpg

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Originally Posted by MikePal

Surprising how many guys feel emasculated having to drive a mini-van...they'll clutch at straws trying to rationalize that their beloved P/U is a good family vehicle ..LOL....

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Originally Posted by MikePal

Just parroting the comments from of my buddy who had a Ram P/U prior to having the kids. The first kid's car seat was put in the center of the back bench seat (as recommended) and it was a royal pain trying to get the kid in and out of his car seat. Having to crawl into the back seat to fasten the straps etc...Not to mention never having room for his work gear beside the car seat. The 2nd car seat was just a nightmare.

They bought a Dodge SUV, sliding doors both sides, storage in the back. Far easier to get the kids in and out of the car seats etc. And his wife found it far easier to drive it when she drive the kids someplace.

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All manufacturers recommend putting car seats in the centre. It's a recommendation.. If you have three kids, I guess you pu the favourite in the centre?!? ;)

Work gear wouldn't be a problem since I wouldn't use this for work.. I don't work in the trades. As for the wifey, she doesn't even like to drive "her car" - we work together and I do all the driving if we are in the same car...

I'd use it for hauling firewood, plywood and other stuff for home projects, and of course, hunting, fishing and camping

So, that said, is it really a bad family vehicle?

I still may end up with an SUV like a 4Runner or maybe an Explorer

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Originally Posted by Splaker

I still may end up with an SUV like a 4Runner or maybe an Explorer

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Wife's 4runner is over 12 years old looks great, runs great and the dealer keeps asking if she wants to trade it in. Just don't buy the limited. The limited is the worst package option for "ANY" toyota model.

Got a 2016 Tacoma Double cab Trd Sport with a 6 speed manual..behind a rock solid V6.

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Originally Posted by Waftrudnir

so to get that straight; a 1500 with the typical 4x8 utility trailer wouldn't need one, but say a 4-Runner with a 6x12 u-haul would? please can anyone share the official reference where it reads that boat trailers are exempt

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Originally Posted by Bluebulldog

Actually, with my Frontier, it's very good. Hwy I'm getting 10.2-10.5L/100. In town add about 3L to that. But it's also the 4.0L V6.

My Titan was thirsty, which was the only downside I ever had with it. And I traded it in at 260,000.

The new 1500 Titans have gone to direct injection, and are reported to be the best in class for fuel economy at 15.7 City, 11.2 highway, and 13 combined.

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Interesting. My 2015 Ram Quadcab 4wd 5.7 Hemi averages 12/100. It will drop down below 10/100 on the highway cruising at 110. Has 108,000 kms on it now and just had the brakes checked and they are no where near ready to be replaced. No issues or failures yet. Our company between Canada and the USA runs over 200 Rams and the fleet manager has no intention of switching.

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

Wife's 4runner is over 12 years old looks great, runs great and the dealer keeps asking if she wants to trade it in. Just don't buy the limited. The limited is the worst package option for "ANY" toyota model.

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What exactly is the problem with the Limited? That was the one we were considering..

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Originally Posted by Splaker

What exactly is the problem with the Limited? That was the one we were considering..

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The price differance is not worth it in my option when you only get a couple extras. Extras that will turn out to a PIA later. "Auto leveling" rear suspension.....air lines break, not compatible with any aftermarket parts. Rear shocks are expensive....only used on limited with the air shocks in the rear. All wheel drive...YUP full time 4wheel all the time. Uses three diffs. One front 7.5"one rear 8". And a center diff. No transfer case. You can get a limited with selectable 4wd but you still have the rear air suspension .

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Originally Posted by Splaker

I still may end up with an SUV like a 4Runner or maybe an Explorer

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That's what we settled on , back to back 4 Runners when the kids were young. They took us thru years of hockey, miles and miles commuting 160km a day for work etc. Never had major problems. Both had 400+K on them when we finally got rid of them and the kids became a non-issue for transportation...then I bought myself a CMC Sierra. I've had three of them and again no major bills, very reliable.

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

The price differance is not worth it in my option when you only get a couple extras. Extras that will turn out to a PIA later. "Auto leveling" rear suspension.....air lines break, not compatible with any aftermarket parts. Rear shocks are expensive....only used on limited with the air shocks in the rear. All wheel drive...YUP full time 4wheel all the time. Uses three diffs. One front 7.5"one rear 8". And a center diff. No transfer case. You can get a limited with selectable 4wd but you still have the rear air suspension .

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Wow, that's one complicated truck! I didn't realize that there was that much of a diff... I thought it was the same truck with some leather and other superficial goodies...

the reason why we like the Limited is b/c we'd like a 7-seater... which is why the Explorer is on the list. I've just heard spotty things about Fords... Reliability isn't always the best. Because I buy used (always have) I tend to stick with safer bets. I've heard the GMC/Chevy (Tahoe could be an option) is pretty bulletproof... and of course Toyota.

Has anyone see the new Nissan Armada? Basically an Infiniti.. looks pretty cool though.

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Originally Posted by Splaker

Wow, that's one complicated truck! I didn't realize that there was that much of a diff... I thought it was the same truck with some leather and other superficial goodies...
the reason why we like the Limited is b/c we'd like a 7-seater..

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If you get a limited with the selectable 4wd then the rear suspension is the only thing you need to keep an eye on. We tow so that put an extra strain on the air lines and shocks. With no aftermarket systems that could "beef up" the suspension the air shocks and air lines have to handle the extra weight. Our 4runner has a lower/raise option and if you don't cycle it a couple times a month the linkage can seize up. If it seizes up bad enough you have to replace parts..

As for seating 7..My tacoma seats five and my wife's 4runner only seats 5. You maybe thinking of the Sequoia. It seats 7 and comes in standard, limited, and platinum package options.

At first glance it looks like a 4runner, but is more like a Cadillac. If it so much as touched a dirt road you would cry...At just under 72 grand for the platinum package I think I would be scared to take it out of the climate controled showroom.:scream:

No the limited offers 7 seats...

[COLOR=#373D45]"SR5 and Limited [COLOR=#373D45]7-Passenger[COLOR=#373D45] models add 50/50 split-folding 3rd row seats."

Scroll down a little and you'll see the 7 seat configuration on the link below...

https://www.toyota.ca/toyota/en/vehi...eatures-design

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Originally Posted by terrym

Interesting. My 2015 Ram Quadcab 4wd 5.7 Hemi averages 12/100. It will drop down below 10/100 on the highway cruising at 110. Has 108,000 kms on it now and just had the brakes checked and they are no where near ready to be replaced. No issues or failures yet. Our company between Canada and the USA runs over 200 Rams and the fleet manager has no intention of switching.

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That's impressive. You're definitely in the top 5% of Hemi owners with those kind of numbers(per fuelly.com) and exceeding the EPA ratings.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...0508886e7c.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...dcb7690f77.jpg

If people just drove the speed limit they'd actually realize excellent fuel economy... but a lot of poeple seem set on driving 125KM/H and then complain about mileage...

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Originally Posted by Splaker

If people just drove the speed limit they'd actually realize excellent fuel economy... but a lot of poeple seem set on driving 125KM/H and then complain about mileage...

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Very true.

My fuel economy on my Frontier is great on highway driving, but its the smaller highways where I average 95km/h. I can usually get it to hover just over the 10L/100 mark. Once I hit a 400 series, and start averaging 120, it climbs closer to whats being reported by LBA above.

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Originally Posted by Splaker

If people just drove the speed limit they'd actually realize excellent fuel economy... but a lot of poeple seem set on driving 125KM/H and then complain about mileage...

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I've got a GMC Sierra with 60k on it running the 5.3L with AFM. My sweet spot for best economy is around 110-115 kph. If I drive the secondary roads at 90 kph, my mileage is reduced. This engine/tranny combo seems optimized for highway speeds. I went on a 650km trip this summer without a trailer or load in the back, with 75% of the driving on highways, and averaged 10.8 L/100, which I didn't think was bad at all.

I'm also getting better mileage than fuelly indicates. 2016 F150 4X4 SUPERCREW with the 5.0. 19,500 KM's on the clock and averaging 13.5L/100KM (which includes some towing), and that's with over sized tires (34.6"). My current tank with about 300 km's is averaging 12.3L/100km's.

Speedometer has been calibrated as well for the larger tires. As has been said, it's all in how you drive.

Are you saying that if I reduce my speed I could get much better than 16l/100km with my Sierra?!?!

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Originally Posted by seabast

Are you saying that if I reduce my speed I could get much better than 16l/100km with my Sierra?!?!

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Much...

Son just traded in his 09 sierra and got what he paid for it 3 years ago. With 213000 on it.

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Originally Posted by Lum 24

Son just traded in his 09 sierra and got what he paid for it 3 years ago. With 213000 on it.

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Just curios because I own the same truck.
What did they give him for it ?
What was the condition of it ?
4x4 ?
Thanks in advance


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Good condition no rust was 4x4 ground effects package and he got around 12 on a trade in for 2016


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